Winterizing the engine

[Retail Therapy]

Looking for some assistance on the best way to winterize the engine and what to use. I have had the boat in Toronto, Ontario Canada for six years and have never found a way to put antifreeze in through the engine itself. Based on some advice, I use a 25 litre bucket and wedge it under the saildrive filled with antifreeze so the solution can be sucked through the air vents in the drive and up into the engine, I continue to fill the bucket with antifreeze until the solution is seen being expelled. I use radiator antifreeze (green toxic solution) mixed 50/50 with water. Unfortunately because of the size of the bucket, I need five containers of the antifreeze to fill it and keep it topped up while the engine is running which gets expensive.

Does anyone have another solution for me? And do I have to use the green radiator antifreeze for this engine - whatever is used must work for temperatures down to -30 degrees Celsius (brrr)

[Sarabande]

(30-10-2009 03:17 AM)Retail Therapy Wrote:  Looking for some assistance on the best way to winterize the engine and what to use. I have had the boat in Toronto, Ontario Canada for six years and have never found a way to put antifreeze in through the engine itself. Based on some advice, I use a 25 litre bucket and wedge it under the saildrive filled with antifreeze so the solution can be sucked through the air vents in the drive and up into the engine, I continue to fill the bucket with antifreeze until the solution is seen being expelled. I use radiator antifreeze (green toxic solution) mixed 50/50 with water. Unfortunately because of the size of the bucket, I need five containers of the antifreeze to fill it and keep it topped up while the engine is running which gets expensive.

Does anyone have another solution for me? And do I have to use the green radiator antifreeze for this engine - whatever is used must work for temperatures down to -30 degrees Celsius (brrr)

As it only takes an hour to remove an engine, why not take it home and you could also do any servicing over the long winter months.

You would have no worries.

I do this if I need to do any work on the unit, even between tides when I can dry out on our leaning posts.

Hope this helps.

[Retail Therapy]

As it only takes an hour to remove an engine, why not take it home and you could also do any servicing over the long winter months. You would have no worries. I do this if I need to do any work on the unit, even between tides when I can dry out on our leaning posts. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply - I actually laughed out loud when I read that - in addition to the fact that I would not have a clue how to remove the engine, there are also a number of reasons I could not do that - top 3 would be 1) I don't have any tools that would allow me to take out an engine 2) I live in an urban condo in Toronto so have no place to work on it (I barely have parking) and 3) I am a girl and a Fashionista - think stilettos and designer clothes.

So as you see, I need a on-board in-boat solution. Thank you so much for the thought though (and my morning smile).

[Sarabande]

[quote='Retail Therapy' pid='253' dateline='1256904932']
As it only takes an hour to remove an engine, why not take it home and you could also do any servicing over the long winter months. You would have no worries. I do this if I need to do any work on the unit, even between tides when I can dry out on our leaning posts. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply - I actually laughed out loud when I read that - in addition to the fact that I would not have a clue how to remove the engine, there are also a number of reasons I could not do that - top 3 would be 1) I don't have any tools that would allow me to take out an engine 2) I live in an urban condo in Toronto so have no place to work on it (I barely have parking) and 3) I am a girl and a Fashionista - think stilettos and designer clothes.

So as you see, I need a on-board in-boat solution. Thank you so much for the thought though (and my morning smile).
[/quote

3 shouldnt be a problem! No local yacht club with willing males to assist?

Methinks stilletos and flashing eyes could well work in your favour.

[janttila]

(30-10-2009 03:17 AM)Retail Therapy Wrote:  Looking for some assistance on the best way to winterize the engine and what to use. I have had the boat in Toronto, Ontario Canada for six years and have never found a way to put antifreeze in through the engine itself. Based on some advice, I use a 25 litre bucket and wedge it under the saildrive filled with antifreeze so the solution can be sucked through the air vents in the drive and up into the engine, I continue to fill the bucket with antifreeze until the solution is seen being expelled. I use radiator antifreeze (green toxic solution) mixed 50/50 with water. Unfortunately because of the size of the bucket, I need five containers of the antifreeze to fill it and keep it topped up while the engine is running which gets expensive.

Does anyone have another solution for me? And do I have to use the green radiator antifreeze for this engine - whatever is used must work for temperatures down to -30 degrees Celsius (brrr)

Hi

I have special "tool" for putting antifreeze trough the engine. See attached drawing. It quite same system that is sometimes used with outboard motors. Metal part is fixed around the saildrive and there is hose going to water container supported near water line. This container is first filled with pure water to flush saltwater from engine then antifreeze solution is applied to container so long that it's coming out from exhaust pipe. Then the motor can be stopped. I'll try to take some pictures when I next time wisit my boat so it could be seen more clearly the system. But it's working fine, normally I need only around 2 liter antifreeze solution.

best regards Jari

[John Smith]

Retail Therapy.
If you have had the boat put ashore, then you shouln't need antifreeze because any water in the drive leg should have drained from the inlet holes. When you're sure that the time has come to haul out, let the engine run for a few moments with the cooling water seacock turned off. This will empty the water pump and water pipes. However, there will be water remaining in the exhaust box: this needs to be sucked out. I use a simple plastic syphon with a squeegee pump, the sort of thing that is sold for getting water from a freshwater canister, it's very cheap from camping equipment shops or chandlers.
On some American websites, I've read that folks also spray a "fogging oil" into the sparkplug holes.
If you like, as a last act of bedding down, you could put a layer of bubble-wrap around the engine and drive leg.

---

(03-11-2009 11:52 AM)John Smith Wrote:  Retail Therapy.
If you have had the boat put ashore, then you shouln't need antifreeze because any water in the drive leg should have drained from the inlet holes. When you're sure that the time has come to haul out, let the engine run for a few moments with the cooling water seacock turned off. This will empty the water pump and water pipes. However, there will be water remaining in the exhaust box: this needs to be sucked out. I use a simple plastic syphon with a squeegee pump, the sort of thing that is sold for getting water from a freshwater canister, it's very cheap from camping equipment shops or chandlers.
On some American websites, I've read that folks also spray a "fogging oil" into the sparkplug holes.
If you like, as a last act of bedding down, you could put a layer of bubble-wrap around the engine and drive leg.

When the boat is ashore, many folks de-salinate their engine by running fresh water through the cooling, but the above still holds.

[elbsegler]

(30-10-2009 07:32 AM)Sarabande Wrote:  I do this if I need to do any work on the unit, even between tides when I can dry out on our leaning posts.

Hope this helps.

I guess you close the hole in the hull bottom with something else? Do you?
When I would try to repair my engine between two tides, murphys law would let me stuck in a traffic jam and my boat will will sink.

[John Smith]

(04-11-2009 01:48 AM)elbsegler Wrote:  

(30-10-2009 07:32 AM)Sarabande Wrote:  I do this if I need to do any work on the unit, even between tides when I can dry out on our leaning posts.

Hope this helps.

I guess you close the hole in the hull bottom with something else? Do you?
When I would try to repair my engine between two tides, murphys law would let me stuck in a traffic jam and my boat will will sink.

I have only heard of one case where the engine has been removed from the boat, and replaced, between tides. It was done by two brothers who knew exactly what to do, and had the tools to hand. They also had easy access to a local dealer for parts.
They waited 'till the boat grounded (on mud), then got to work. They needed to change the main shaft seal, so this ment a lot of work, but they did it.
I suppose that you could remove the engine at low water, then fother a sheet of tough plastic over the hole in the hull. It should hold when the pressure of the incoming water presses it in place against the hull. You can then work on the engine inside the boat. In my experience you will need someone to help in removing, and replacing, the engine as it is heavy.

JS

[Sarabande]

(04-11-2009 05:48 PM)John Smith Wrote:  

(04-11-2009 01:48 AM)elbsegler Wrote:  

(30-10-2009 07:32 AM)Sarabande Wrote:  I do this if I need to do any work on the unit, even between tides when I can dry out on our leaning posts.

Hope this helps.

I guess you close the hole in the hull bottom with something else? Do you?
When I would try to repair my engine between two tides, murphys law would let me stuck in a traffic jam and my boat will will sink.

I have only heard of one case where the engine has been removed from the boat, and replaced, between tides. It was done by two brothers who knew exactly what to do, and had the tools to hand. They also had easy access to a local dealer for parts.
They waited 'till the boat grounded (on mud), then got to work. They needed to change the main shaft seal, so this ment a lot of work, but they did it.
I suppose that you could remove the engine at low water, then fother a sheet of tough plastic over the hole in the hull. It should hold when the pressure of the incoming water presses it in place against the hull. You can then work on the engine inside the boat. In my experience you will need someone to help in removing, and replacing, the engine as it is heavy.

JS

I made a close cell polystyrene plug for the bottom where the leg exits and a plug for inside with a mastic seal, no water came in.
I also lifted the engine out without any assistance, I am in my 60s.
then of course I appreciate not everyone is fit!

[Ciao Bye]

Ok if I might add my 6 years eperience with that engine. (I have 3 of those)

The drawing with the can on the side of the boat is perfect. I use a special tool to seal the leg (this rubber seal is sold in any outboard dealer or Canadian tire.) Il is made of a metal U shape rod and a rubber boot on each side. One side has a fitting to plug a hose. see http://www.blyachting.com/outboard-flusher-kit-1.html

Ok let's start the job. You have previously pour a gaz treatment liquid in the gaz tank before the end of the season to stabilize the fuel. very important.

The boat is on the trailer. I place the rubber boot over the holes (see manual shop page 39, the 3 holes just under the top filling plug for the leg). Make sure you use duck tape around the rubber boot to seal perfectly around the leg so no water and evetually no anti-freeze will be lost by the gap there.

I connect a fresh water hose to the boot then run the engine for 4 to 5 minutes to clean the inside. Make sure someone is checking under the boat to make sure the the rubber boot stay there. Beware of the propeller. I suggest you take it off before doing this and keep it in you house for the winter has they are easy to steal (and hard to find). This will enable you to check the pin inside the shaft. Honda has those pins for 2$.

The engine must have liquid at all time or the impeller will be damage within 5 seconds.

Stop the engine ( and the water after) and remore any water from the exhaust silencer (page 12 item 8) it is easy, there is a big plastic plug over it. (this will save some anti-freeze in the last operation). Use a vacum pump as describe here: http://www.blyachting.com/pela-oil-extracting-pump.html This pump is very usefull has you can use it to change the oil in the engine.

Bring the big plastic container ( see the drawing sent above) near the top of the boat were you can fill it easyly while the engine run whe you are in the cockpit. Connect the bottom of the container to the fitting in the rubber boot. (you have inserted a hose in the bottom of the container first and seal it with epoxy as to not loose any precious anti-freeze). Fill it with anti-freeze and start the engine after. Let it run until the anti freeze exit for a 30 second period at the exhaust port over board. I usually use arounf 8 liter of plumbing anti-freez and it is much enough for the job but bring another gallon of just in in case. A 6 $ job finally.

Disconnect everything. Keep your container with the hose for next year.
Change the oil. Unscrew the plug at the bottom on the side of the carburator to drain the gaz from the bowl. Beware of fire and place a rag to trap the running gaz and discard the rag (approx 1 once of fuel). page 8 screw no 15. Do not loose it and screw it immediately after the bowl is empty. (5 seconds)

Let the water valve from the leg open for the winter. page 12 item 11. Remove 2 spark plugs and shoot some winterizing spray in the hole and replace the spark plug with the right specification.

This should do the job. Take a minute to make a visual inspection of the engine, the wires and all the visible parts son you will have no surprises when spring come.

I would invete you to read this article has it might also give you a general idea for the outboard motor in general.

It is a good little engine and if you treat it correctly it will give you many more years of durable service. Honda has all the parts for the engine. Give them the year and the serial number i,e BF xxxxxx.

Has for the bottom parts wich is a Volvo, You should be able to buy the here on the forum.

Have fun

John
Quebec
Canada

see those sites

http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/VP_Sch...s/GAS/MB2/

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Lubricati..._id.329188

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/...parts.html this one is important has all the parts are listed. It was also called the BF100 and BF 75